Wayfarer review: Soneva Kiri offers Thailand’s most extraordinary island escape

by James Wilkinson

From afternoon tea in the treetops to swimming in waterfalls, enjoying outdoor showers, indulging in massages and enjoying some delicious Thai cuisine, Soneva Kiri offers an Asian escape that’s barefoot luxury at its finest. James Wilkinson checks-in.

In the most South-Eastern pocket of Thailand where the nation connects to Cambodia at the sea, one resort stands tall as the nation’s most unique island escape where sustainability meets luxury in the finest way.

That resort is Soneva Kiri and soon after walking off the private flight from Bangkok at the remote Ko Mai Si Airport, where you could be forgiven for thinking you’ve landed in the middle of the jungle, you quickly get a sense of what you’re in for.

From the remote airstrip. you head on a boat across to the island of Koh Kood, home to Soneva Kiri and known for its waterfalls, ancient rainforest and a lack of big brand resorts.

Here, it’s like heading back 40 years before tourism started booming in Thailand and as soon as you hop off the boat, you quickly get a feel for the unique style of the resort, which feels like a treehouse with subtle but beautiful tropical luxury touches right across the property from the villas, which are the size of houses, through to the outdoor cinema, myriad of restaurants, reading rooms and the spa.

When it comes to accommodations, the 32 private villas are all unique in their design and interiors and range in size from one to five bedrooms. They are found across the resort, from beachside to hidden in the jungle, on the hillsides and the clifftops, where you can expect spectacular views across the Gulf of Thailand.

Each is incredibly spacious and feature a private pool – some that are almost bigger than the villa interiors – alongside oversized indoor and outdoor living spaces and impeccable verdant gardens. Expect outdoor showers, relaxing areas, comfortable oversized beds and plenty of space to unwind.

The villas come complete with an electric buggy and bicycles to cruise around the property’s winding paths, explore the beaches and soak up the jungle atmosphere the resort offers.

As part of the ‘barefoot luxury’ this resort and all Soneva properties are known for, there’s also a butler – here known as a Barefoot Guardian – and you can expect excellent hospitality that’s available any time of the day or night.

One of the first things you should get the Barefoot Guardian to do is arrange afternoon tea high in the jungle as part of the resort’s Treepod Dining Experience. You’ll walk through the trees and then take a seat on the banquette in a bamboo pod, which is then raised high up into the tropical foliage of Koh Kood’s ancient rainforest.

As you gaze out across the trees and boulder-covered shoreline into the ocean, you’ll enjoy small plates of tasty Thai treats and matching fresh mocktails, all delivered to you on a zipline by your waiter.

While several times of the day are on offer for the experience, afternoon tea with the waves crashing onto the shore below is when this dining offering is at its best.

Another unique dining experience that is also incredible here is found by booking a table at local restaurant Kruua Mae Tuk, also known as Tuk’s Kitchen, where you can expect the best Traditional Thai food on Koh Kood.

Now this isn’t any ordinary restaurant because it’s not one that can be booked for anyone else on Koh Kood as it’s only available for guests of Soneva.

First, you’ll take a boat journey from the resort along the island’s beaches and then head up a river to a shack that sits on stilts.

It has a unique stylish tropical rustic feel which you quickly sink in to, but the real winner here is the ‘no-menu’ dining concept, which offers a vast selection of dishes that are inspired by ingredients grown on Koh Kood, Koh Chang and seafood caught by local fishermen.

Back over at Soneva Kiri, score a table on the outdoor, open-air terrace amongst the trees at The View, where you will find a fusion of Japanese and Peruvian cuisine, known as Nikkei, alongside a fantastic wine list and stunning views out across the Gulf of Thailand.

If the views and setting don’t win you over, the menu will and highlights include the Koh Kood spicy crab roll, pork belly and the salmon salad, best matched with a malbec from Mendoza after a chilled glass of Champagne.

What also impresses is the wine list and Soneva’s cellar features more than 350 labels in a climate-controlled cave, with organic and biodynamic wines making up more than 50 per cent of the collection.

If you’re after lunch on the beach or dinner under the stars, Coconut Grove is where you’ll find local and international delights, such as tandoori fish, Meen Moilee and fantastic local prawns.

Still on the dining experiences, when it comes to breakfast, the resort also impresses well with Thai and western cooked and chilled dishes alongside some of the most delicious fresh juices you’ll try in Thailand.

Given Soneva Kiri is a true destination resort, having this quality of food and beverage offerings really makes this property stand out and you know you can do a week here and have a fantastic array of cuisines to enjoy.

You’ll find wellness offerings in the menus across the property and the inspiration comes from the Soneva Kiri Spa, another standout offering at the resort.

The Soneva Kiri Spa is hidden away within Koh Kood’s pristine rainforest and it is an idyllic setting infused with traditional Thai charm.

Find eight couples’ treatment rooms, four include private steam rooms and a yoga pavilion that includes aerial yoga equipment. The spa also has three treatment spots by the beach, plus the men’s and women’s relaxation areas also include steam rooms and infrared saunas, while outside there is a tranquil organic spa garden, with four stone beds and a bamboo mist shower.

In keeping with the wellness and active theme there is also a lot to explore on the island, from Koh Kood’s hidden waterfalls to strolling on white sandy beaches and snorkelling in the marine park.

At night, head to the resort’s own state-of-the-art observatory, which offers 360-degree views of the star-strewn heaven, identifying constellations with the property’s resident astronomer.

Given the resort’s remote location, you’ll have an incredible stargazing experience when the sky is clear and far from the light pollution of the mainland.

With so much offer, you can certainly have a fun-filled escape on Koh Kood. But then, you can also have the ultimate relaxation because that’s what Soneva Kiri is all about.

ESSENTIALS: GETTING TO KOH KOOD

The best way of getting to Koh Kood in comfort and style.

Soneva Kiri offers direct flights for guests from Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi International Airport to airport island of Koh Mai Si, a five-minute boat ride from Koh Kood. Flights take around 90 minutes and round-trip journeys are priced at US$750 per adult and US$375 per child.

Singapore Airlines can get you to Bangkok in style from across the globe via the carrier’s hub at Changi Airport. Flights are regularly operated by the carrier’s Airbus A350 aircraft, which offer one of the best Business Class cabins in Asia, complete with a ‘Book the Cook’ service.

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