However, in the case of the Marksman, it is amazing things courtesy of the creative genius of head chefs and joint owners Tom Harris and Jon Rotheram, who list St John, One Leicester Street and Fifteen on their CVs.
Here, expect devilled crab on toast, beef and barley buns with horseradish cream, fried salt hake and potato rissoles, curried duck and a chicken and wild garlic pie for two. Save room for pudding because the brown butter and honey tart, and quince and saffron sorbet are must orders.
If you can’t score a table, order a pint at the bar and some snacks because a table here is worth the wait.
254 Hackney Rd, London E2 7SJ, UK. +44 20 7739 7393. Tube: Hoxton